Thomas Cochrane
-
Posts
95 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Events
Posts posted by Thomas Cochrane
-
-
Actually, now that I look at it closer, I'm really confused
The Victory numbers on the right are off. What do you mean by min-max broadside vs min-max metal weight?But this is awesome in my opinion and is a lot better than my list and goes into more details. I think it is an excellent visual aide
Hi, yes I had an error in spreadsheet and I was very tired. Check it again now
The idea is the broadside min max is the range of damage which can be delivered by a single broadside whereas metal weight is the total weight of metal she can fire from all cannons (minimum and maximum).
-
I recommend posting broadside weight of metal for the historical complement of long guns. Leave the carronades out of it.
Hi yes I've ignored cannonades.
-
Ugnh - silly me. I am pretty sleepy. I will look into fixing it tomorrow. It's meant to be as you say a) minimum/maximum from a single broadside
total metal weight min/max. Thanks for telling me.I think it's fixed now : http://imgur.com/YrLBkS5
. -
Actually, now that I look at it closer, I'm really confused
The Victory numbers on the right are off. What do you mean by min-max broadside vs min-max metal weight?But this is awesome in my opinion and is a lot better than my list and goes into more details. I think it is an excellent visual aide
Okay so I think its fixed now: http://imgur.com/YrLBkS5
-
^^
The cutter can heave to on other courses if you put your boom opposite auto skipper. But, like I said, dont know if that is realistic or not. You will eventually start going backwards.
Oh okay.
-
I'm not sure where you are getting your broadside weight numbers. Broadside weight refers to the weight of shot fired on a single target, meaning 1 broadside and not both. Technically, I think it only refers to the main battery (gun deck) but I think it should include all decks for a more accurate number.
An example
Lynx
4x4lbers 16
or
4x6lbers 24
or
4x12lb carronades 48
Lynx is at max 48.
But otherwise awesome chart.
If you look at the Victory, Yacht, Cutter, and Privateer, they are correct on your chart, all the others are wrong.
Here is an incomplete list to help you out that doesn't list all combinations and mostly just focuses on the standard armament with a few additions of carronades as well. I had compiled this list for TDA some time ago, but again, I just focus on the standard armaments
Lynx
4 x 6lb - 24
total: 24
Cutter, Yacht:
6 x 6lb - 36
total: 36
or
6 x 12lb cannonades - 72
total: 72 (more than a standard snow!)
Brig:
8 x 6lb - 48
total: 48
Snow
3 x 6lb - 18
8 x 6lb - 48
total: 66
Surprise
7 x 9lb - 63
12 x 12 lb - 144
total: 207 lbs
Trincomalee:
11 x 12lb longs - 132
14 x 18lb longs - 252
total: 384
Constitution
12 x 18lb - 216
15 x 24lb - 360
total: 576
or
12 x 32lb carronades - 384
15 x 24lb - 360
total: 744
Bellona
9 x 12lb - 108
14 x 24lb - 336
14x 32lb - 448
total: 892
Victory
7 x 18lb - 126
15 x 24lb - 360
15 x 32lb - 480
16 x 42lb - 672
toal: 1638
Santisima
17 x 9lb - 153
17 x 18lb - 306
18 x 32lb - 576
17 x 42lb - 714
total: 1749
Ugnh - silly me. I am pretty sleepy. I will look into fixing it tomorrow. It's meant to be as you say a) minimum/maximum from a single broadside
total metal weight min/max. Thanks for telling me. -
-
Hear hear! I believe the bottle stands by you, Mr Darby.
I believe you know the Bishop of Gloucester...?
-
And equally important, a ship under bare poles should soon develop a heavy roll, spoiling gunnery. That, combined with loss of rotation control, should teach all these newbs a lesson.
My soul bleeds every time I see players in a sailing game sitting at the edge of a fight without a scrap of canvas flying, sniping away with long guns. Fie, fie, fie.
That's a fantastic idea, I hadn't thought of that. Also roll could be a big factor in other areas. For example when running you roll a lot but when close hauled you hardly roll at all.
If I go out in a modern sail boat even if I'm going under power I put the main up for just that reason, it's godawful to be powering along in a sailboat with no sails up because you feel every bit of roll on every point of sail. The main stabilizes the vessel the vessel a lot.
Another step would be to introduce weather helm and lee helm in manual sails configuration but that's a bit technical I guess and maybe already included in the turn mechanic? (That is where you can unbalance your sails so they turn against each other - for example on a bermuda rig you can carry too much jib or genny so that you turn away from the weather, or too much main and you turn into the weather).
-
Good idea, I don't think anyone's proposed it yet. This would probably require a special key.
Plus new animations, but there are tons of things that should happen with headsails that require new animations. If they ever take the plunge, this should be on the list.
Also, have you noticed that jibsheets stay the same on different tacks? On a port tack, you keep using the port jib sheet.
No I hadn't noticed that...
-
Or they can add the anchor drop animation when completely stopped. This will keep the ship steady. However, it would take time to raise the anchor. Good suggestion.
Yes that would be cool. Need to factor in depth for anchoring and swing. IRL you need 2.5-5 time more length of cable than the depth because an anchor must lie in a long curve so that the force is almost all horizontal and not vertical. That's how they get off the anchor, they sail up to it and then pull from directly above.
In any case vessels at anchor drift so that the anchor is to windward and will spin around the anchor point if the wind changes.
Being hove to is another option, which I mentioned in another post. They would need to fix the ability to set the jib on the opposite tack for fore and aft rigged vessels, for square rigged ships I don't know how they do it.
-
1
-
-
Bare poles.?
Each ship is different and will act differently depending on hull configuration and design etc. Also wind speed has a great influence. In a light breeze the ship could easily turn broadside to and just drift. I heavy air it could be possible to get enough weigh on that the rudder has some affect. In any case rolling will be aggravated.
Depends on how deep the GL team wants to get into that?
I do not agree. The tendency of ships to lie ahull under bare poles (and then to get knocked down) is the result of impact from the waves (not the wind). The waves are necessarily coming from the same direction as the wind. In the almost flat waters of most maps the ships wouldn't lie ahul, they would turn to present their narrowest aspect to the wind. The exception is the storm map where a ship should lie ahull and then be knocked down.
-
For the fore and aft rigged ships especially it would be very useful to be able to set the jib on the wrong side.
To explain: Imagine if you are going to tack. When you pass through the wind the jib sets on the new tack (the other side). At the moment that happen automatically
If you kept the jib tied to the opposite tack then the main sail and the jib would be on opposite sides. This is called being hove to and its a very quick way to stop. It is, in fact, the only way to stop a vessel with sails (otherwise you would have to anchor or tie to something).
It used for the following: to avoid collision, man overboard, to perform surgery (see the Maturin Aubery books), to wait out a storm, to fire more accurately, to take sightings.
Would it be possible/desirable to add an option for which side the jib is set on to the manual sail options?
-
2
-
-
The most unrealistic thing about the movement of ships is what they do when their sails are down.
In the game they effectively come to a stop, facing whichever way they were going.
If we exclude currents and tides (which I think are not yet implemented) then the only force acting on the ship with its sails down is the wind.
For modern boats the bit with the engine in the heaviest (usually the stern) so it has the least movement due to wind. As a result a vessel under bare pole will head up into the wind and stand with its nose into the eye.
For these old boats I presume that the weight is pretty evenly distributed (maybe someone could correct me if not). So I reckon that unless the boat is exactly balanced it will turn either nose to wind or nose down.
If they did turn to be nose downwind they would run slowly under bare poles in any weather. In very heavy weather I've known ships to run downwind even approaching hull speed just under bare poles.
Would it possible/desirable to implement an approach whereby ships with their sails down turn downwind and run away?
You can also lock the rudder which will make the ship turn under bare poles – this is already implemented I think.
-
6
-
-
If you only learn one knot, learn the bowline.
-
1
-
-
The devs have asked me to change my name and I have, of course, agreed, This is the last you will see of Slippery Cnut. Sorry for any inadvertent offence caused and thanks to the devs for handling it in a nice way.
On an unrelated note, could we start a discussion about everyone's favorite age-of-sail knots and bends? I personally favor the cunt splice: http://southseas.nla.gov.au/refs/falc/1243.html
-
3
-
-
I've printed that out
-
2
-
-
Here I was thinking you wanted adult images on the sails
But one a serious note, sounds like a good thing to be added.
Hahaha I didn't think of that. The thread title is deceptively interesting
-
I don't know if this has been suggested before I'd like to see a possibility for scandalising sails. This is a means of reducing them very fast in a quick and dirty way.
Having scandalised a sail is should take much longer to correct to the rig and get moving again.
This could be used as a sudden stopping measure with a cost : it takes longer to get going as well.
Two types of scandalizing I've seen in real life, both on a fore and aft rigged vessel:
1) you can release the kicker and sharply tighten the topping lift so that the boom lifts up fast, say up to 45 degree so the mainsail becomes baggy and loses wind. This is especially effective when closehauled because it completely removes the aerofoil effect of the sail. On a reach or a run it is less effective because the sail will still bag some air.
2) The jib sheet can also be let fly, so that the sail is only attached at the tack and the head. This will instantly stop any force acting on the vessel from the foresail, regardless of the point of sail.
I understand that similar methods exist for square rigged ships - maybe a better sailor than I could confirm this?
Id loveit if it would be possible to manually raise the boom as well as to be able release the clew for both the main sails and the jibs. to lose all way very quickly. Then there should be a time penalty for reattaching them/bringing the sail back under control.
-
4
-
The Victory numbers on the right are off. What do you mean by min-max broadside vs min-max metal weight?
total metal weight min/max. Thanks for telling me.
Ship Chart: Rigging, Guns, Crew, Broadside Weight, Metal Weight
in Guides - development forum
Posted
Thank you telling me ! I will update it in the next version as I saw your comment to late to get into this version. I'm sure people will find other errors too.