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About Absolon

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    The North Coast of the U.S.
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    Besides History of the era, I spend much of my time Racing Sailboats on the Great Lakes

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  1. Friendly clans list has a fixed length.. happened to me Sat morning. New player chasing around port battles for couple of hours and couldn't get I in even though there was room and I was in battle group
  2. no, we did not continue sailing with half mast. We were racing, and only a couple of miles from the club. So, fired up the motor once we were absolutely sure there were no lines, shrouds or other gear that may foul the propeller. Had we been on a long transport, we would have jury rigged a sail to conserve fuel until we were 100% sure we had the fuel range to motor. There should be no turning penalty. Poor trim may cause you to turn slower, or require more helm to compensate a straight line. Take a look at my avatar icon (full image in gallery). I'm beating upwind, apparent wind angle about 40' (true wind probably greater the 45 degrees). Note my main is not on centerline. In fact it's less then centerline. I'm using the traveler to drop it below centerline, and easing the sheet to let the boom come up some. Why? as you can see, hard over, and max speed is to keep the rail out of the water (this was a solo, no crew, so went with a bigger jib so I wouldn't have to change it when heading downwind). by easing the sheet, the top of the sail twists off, reducing heel. by lowering the traveler, I'm reducing overall horsepower, and trying to keep the boat from sliding sideways. The last thing I'm preventing is weather helm. Weather helm is when the main is in a bit too much for the conditions, and the boat wants to round up into the wind, or to weather. It's typical in conditions shown and less to some weather helm, and go very fast. But when it gets out of control say in a gust, then the boat will roll to its side more, pull the rudder out of the water, and then round dead to wind.. Not fast, and not good on equipment. If I cannot get steerage in a gust, then we just blow the line. un cleat it and let it run a couple of feet until I can steer again. Although missing sails should change acceleration greatly, in high winds (white caps and up) it should have less of an effect on top speed. and zero effect on steerage, because you can always release a sail to regain steerage. In fact, when blowing like it was in that same picture, on main alone (50% reduction in sail) we should get about 5 knots, and adding the jib going upwind would get us to only 5.9 maybe 6.2, except downwind where we could hit a little over 7 (if we caught a wave and surfed). Not all masts are repaired same. A Mainmast should not be the same as a top mast, which is not the same as a gallant. Don't be fooled by looking at modern boats and thinking that the mast on square riggers were all one piece. Gallants. about the size of a sapling. tended to be springy wood such as cedar. should be able to take this out with chain. Often struck down on deck when not in use. Top mast bigger around and can be considered much stronger enough chain, or a lucky ball should be able to strike this down. Even a shroud hit should could topple it. Main, or Lower Mast. on an SOL, Think 200 year old Oak de-barked and pretty upped a bit. This tree trunk was set all the way thru the hull, down to the bottom setting on the ships back. This thing should be able to withstand numerous hits before toppling. for more info, take a look here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topmast
  3. steering, I would agree on odd handling characteristics due to the change on the center of effort. Drag may be an issue, but would quickly be cleared. At battle stations, axes were stowed all over the deck, and one of the reasons was to cut away rigging if needed. A quick time in survival mode should clear the wreckage. We even do this now, and on some races it's a requirement that you carry a pair of bolt/chain cutters on board. I always carry a large set of bolt cutters on my boat, in case we loose a mast. I've been on a boat where this happened once. going downwind in a blow, spinnaker up, and backstay failed. Mast folded at lower spreaders and fell forward. In that case, we pulled out the bolt cutters, cut the remaining shrouds and stays to the damaged part of the mast, and kicked it overboard. We were concerned it could hole the boat if left banging on the hull, and too big/heavy a piece of aluminum to pull fully back on the boat. If possible (no safety issue) you keep the failed mast on board so that the insurance agent has all the info they need to file your claim. As a side note with repairs, it is typical to re-use a chunk of mast/cross arms to form a jury rig. If you have a piece of your rig on board, your crew in survival should be able to jury rig for partial repair without a using a repair or other penalty, just like getting your hole count down in the hull in survival mode.
  4. yes.. except to a certain point, you are thinking about our current aluminum sticks (or carbon fiber. Single Extrusion. You're also thinking deck stepped, not keel stepped. on a keel step mast, going downwind with full press (say a spinnaker) and your backstay goes, the mast will probably fold at the lower shrouds (weakpoint due to fittings) and only loose half a mast. Been there done that on a C&C 33. Also, if you loose an upper shroud when going upwind, the mast will buckle at the lowers, even on a deck stepped mast. had it happen to a friend of mine on a catalina 27. (we were on same race on my boat and it was a scary touch and go weather front that moved thru). So, yes.. shrouds and stays are hugely important.. But..... it should be close to impossible to loose your main mast. the main is the stick (read huge oak tree) that goes thru all the decks, and makes up about half of the mast height on ships of this era. Then there's the top mast, or the top portion of each mast. these make up the remaining mast height, and are attached to the main mast. Top masts (top 1/3rd to 1/2) should be easy to knock out along with sheets, stays shrouds and cross arms. but main mast, close to impossible.
  5. wing on wing is a miserable way to go downwind, and JAM (jib and main only) is a division saved for those that are either too afraid/too old to use a spinnaker or they owner doesn't have the money to spend on spinnaker (Spinnaker new for 30' boat is about 2,000 USD , additional gear needed about another 1,500 USD) The reason why wing on wing should not be used in the game: Unless you set the jib on a pole it just flops around near useless. Setting the clew on a pole takes time, and takes time to take down. If not done right you can punch hole in a sail. In game sails respond much faster then real world boats as it is.. If you put wing on wing in game, then you would have to put a few seconds penalty in before the boat would be able to get out of that mode. better just to leave it out. If you want more speed downwind, jybe back and forth. Odd thing about sailboats (and racing) the fastest distance between two points is not always a straight line. You sometimes sail not pointed at where you want to go, but the fastest angles to where you want to go, even downwind. The actual term is "maximizing vmg": velocity made good to the place you want to end up.
  6. Prez, you're right it's not a bug.. maybe the terms are "too liberal of a hitbox" too high of probably of event after hit box, and not taking into consideration glancing blow vs direct hit.Mast, being roundish (rough hewn by hand, so, not perfectly round) unless hit dead on, or very close to dead on, would not absorb as much energy of the shot.
  7. Prezes, take a look at 7:30 in on first video.. what took out my mainmast was not your volley, but a single aimed ball. THAT is what I have a problem with. and.. if you look at after you volley, you can see that whoever it is (further forward in your line) is continuing to aim with single balls at my remaining mast bases (when you go in scope mode).. you can see them hit my side every now and then..
  8. but, the outcome of the whale and the elephant.. plus france's win rate.. pretty much say the method was not successful most of the time
  9. we had 4 ships all loose a mast per volley. That defies odds in real combat.. yeah.. good focus, but all sants lost at least 2 masts in minutes. again, topmasts, yes, but mainmasts, no.
  10. Masts come down way too easy. .it was common to loose a topmast, but not a lower. several accounts exist of large bore balls embedded in them, and they kept standing.. I'm done with Trafalgar until this is patched.
  11. uh. yes, you can, It really sucks to have a kite up when that happens. ok. probably only 160. It usually goes something like this.. light wind, muggy evening, you can see a thunderstorm / or weather front coming. look at the difference of wind ripples on the water wonder what the shift is and wham.. you're in it. It tends to be much stronger wind, and has a high shift in temperature. This is because in reality, it's a microburst, heading straight down from the storm front. when it hits ground/water it fans out in all directions. depending on where you are compared to the burst, it can appear to be 180 different. Some bursts are catastrophic (read up on Wing nuts in the 2011 Chicago Mac Race).. others, just feel like a refreshing cool breeze, but very different (and can be close to 180 from existing system breeze). this can create a 180 situation. most of the time, with well defined fronts, 90 is the max. It is not uncommon for the wind to shift 180 within a half hour here on the great lakes. System wind versus shore breeze. Typically in a high pressure system wind is not that strong. hot land/cold water can create a breeze that is exactly opposite of system (but only at a really low altitude, rarely effects aviation). . eventually, the shore breeze gets far enough off land that air cools to water temp, breeze peters out, and system takes back over. there will often be a dead zone, with the appearance of little or no wind, (or even a big veer in the wind) but it is possible, and not uncommon to encounter these conditions on warm summer evenings, on nice sunny days. And then there's always weak system getting overtaken by a new front. the shift can happen within a minute. seen it happen many times, and its usually the same thing. .dying /light breeze one way, and wham new breeze stronger from another.
  12. I agree on the storms, the movement, consistency of waves is not quite right.. close, but not right, add to that the windshifts. there are really three types of waves to consider here open sea rollers, which it seems would be what is attempted. this would produce a situation with course and speed constant, where the ship rolls thru a sequence in a given set of time (per illustration above). This way you could time a shot , waiting for the ship to roll back to position of the ranging shot. a windshift topping wave, when then wind shifts from the established roller direction. If the wind shifts, a new smaller wave would form on top of the existing wave. The roller, would just be a lump, and the whitecap would match the new wind direction. Waves reflected from land. this is actually closest scenario to what we see in game.. It's miserable sailing in real world. Most prominent around cliffs, and other places where water goes from deep to shallow very fast (does not happen with a shallow sandy beach). you have the windborn roller and a chop that's reflected back from land. Hard to predict, and very hard to sail in. But even with seas this confused, still predictable as far as roll, once you take a minute or two to time the rolls of the windborn and reflected wave. As far as wind pressure and direction. this would be really easy to relay to players on the start up screen as a rough barometer reading. Simply state barometer is. falling, steady or rising. if steady, the wind would remain about consistent in strength, and most like likely oscillate thru about 10 to as much as 30 degrees (swing back and forth). if rising, then wind would lessen in strength. if falling, wind would increase in strength (storm coming). with rising or falling, one would expect to the wind to veer, or shift in one direction (clockwise, or counterclockwise based on where you are on the globe). The shift could occur either slowy a few degrees at a time, or up to and including almost 180 degrees all at once.
  13. Was thinking the same thing in regards to fire.. either have fire as the target bears, rolling, or full broadside as an option. Add to that "maintain brisk fire" meaning, continue to fire at designated target. One other thought is instead of space bar to fire, you actually select the gun in the battery. maybe when in aim mode, pull up a keymap showing how far each gun is loaded, and make each gun "fireable". When in close, it's a bit annoying to not know if the single shot is going to come from fore, or aft. This would also take care of rolling fire, as you pass a transom or the like. For ships with too many guns to map, maybe group them in 2s and 3s.
  14. Absolon

    UI Fixes

    I believe the ship status indicators (armor and guns) should somehow be worked into the vertical, or at least have the option.
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