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Found 21 results

  1. AeRoTR

    Free Camera Mode tutorial

    A small tutorial on Free Camera mode of Naval Action. For more tutorials you can visit clan BCC forum: http://bccnavalaction.freeforums.net/board/20/naval-action-guides INFO: [Home] to detach. Z & X up/down W – Forward S – Back A – Move/Strafe Left D – Move/Strafe Right [ and ] – Zooming Mouse Wheel – increase/decrease speed of camera If you see a ship in the distance press [CTRL] key and hold it down. This frees your Mouse. Hover mouse over the ship and double click. This brings up the details... thank you all for feedbacks
  2. I have put together various naval action guides and tutorials and links to many stuff. These are mostly for new players. http://bccnavalaction.freeforums.net/board/20/naval-action-guides
  3. Help ! Help for me Devs !!! (First, I English bad. Sorry. I'm from Republic of Korea. I just 18c ship lover) I all complete Tutorial and Challange. But I no receive reward ! T.T http://steamcommunity.com/games/311310/announcements/detail/1666765335143310246 see. Devs. But I no receive reward !!!!!!!!!! T.T Help!!!!!! I need XP(Master and Commander Rank) and Ship !!!! See screen shot. I all complete Tutorial and Challange. But I no receive reward ! T.T Plz, Help me. My In-game ID : Edward Edwards Sever : Carribean (PVP sever) My Steam Profile : http://steamcommunity.com/id/hyeok416 Help !!!!!
  4. BianDaBunny

    Missing Ship After Finishing Tutorial

    After completing the Tutorial, specifically the Endurance Challenge, I returned to port to find my Wasa missing. I am very upset over the Wasa as it had many expensive upgrades and Edinorog Guns (which i cannot replace easily). I would like my ship back and all the upgrades and cannons I had on it. I cant remember what exactly was in the hold so i do not care about that, just the ship, the guns and the upgrades. If this could be resolved today (possibly in the next two hours) that would be a big help as I was hoping to use it today but as of now i cannot.
  5. Why a community/group build? Well, I wanted to do a hull modelling tutorial for a long time but I just don´t like the concept of a 'one-way' tutorial, I want to learn something, too, after all. The basic idea is that I show my approach to certain aspects of ship modelling (making the frames, applying thickness to the hull shape, modelling head rails etc) and then the participants can decide whether they want to follow my approach or try something different and then post it in the dedicated thread. To make this work properly, it´s important that we all work on the same ship and thus face all the same challenges and can transfer the input/help from other members directly on our own model. What´s the scope of the tutorial? Just the basic hard-surface stuff initially. Getting the plans into the modelling app, modelling the hull, head, transom, decks. Standing rigging and applying textures optional. What do I need to participate? Well, I'm using Blender and Gimp but any other modelling app like Maya or SketchUp and a picture-editing software will do. If you´re also using Blender, I suggest you install Offset Edges and LoopTools, which are really helpful imo. There countless other nice add-ons for Blender (like TinyCAD) but I won´t use them for this tutorial as I try to keep it as basic as possible. I'll provide the original plan, my edited version and a .blend file with my usual setup, including the plans imported into blender. Please use those only the for the tutorial Here´s the plan / ship I've chosen for the tutorial:
  6. Hi everyone i just wanted to show some of you how you post you NA chatlog : Got to: Computer -> C/storage -> Programs -> Steam -> Steamapps -> Common -> Naval action -> Client Data -> Chatlog notice : some people have their steam libary on their D/storage if so, open that one other than your C/storage and look for steam there. I hope it helped some people and you can understand my ''special'' english. have fun with that -joegrag
  7. Since we have an incredible amount of plans in this subforum, but no tutorial on how to read them (at least I haven´t found one), I figured I have to make one myself. And it´s a nice starting point for my modelling tutorial For this tutorial, I chose the plan of the Gefion, a danish 24-pounder frigate launched in 1843. Why choose a plan for a ship that´s out of the NA timeframe? Because it´s easy to read, contains a lot of information and I can explain a lot of things which woudn´t be possible with a contemporary british of french plan (some of the lines you won´t see on those, but on 'modern' reconstructions) Let´s get started, here´s the original draught of the Gefion: First, we´ll have a look at the dimensions given in the lower right corner and how they´re measured. The information here seems to be pretty straightforward, length between perpendiculars ( p/p) 160', breadth moulded 41', depth in hold 21' 1', draught aft 18' 9'' draught amidships 18' 2'', draught forward 17' 7'' with a difference between the draught fore and aft of 1' 2''. The middle gunport is 6' 9'' above the waterline, the distance between the gunports is 7' 2''. The rest are the results of the displacement calculations and not really important. What´s below the title is a bit more interesting as it tells us that the frigate should be armed with 28 long 24-pounders à 15 skp (~ 47,2 cwt with a length of 9' 6'') and 20 short-pattern 24-pounders à 8 1/2 skp (27,75 cwt). The total broadside weight - one side - is 576 danish pounds, converted to british pounds that´s 634,5. We have to keep in mind that the danish fod, as the french pied de roi, is a bit longer than the imperial feet, so if we want to compare these dimensions to a similiar british frigate like the Endymion or want to import and scale the plan in a modelling app, which probably only knows meter or feet, we have to convert them. The conversion factor is ~ 1.0305 (1.06575 for the pied de roi, by the way), so the dimensions in imperial feet are: length p/p 164' 10 1/2'' breadth 42' 3'' depth in hold 21' 9 3/4'' draught aft 19' 4'' draught foreward 18' 1 1/2'' middle gunport above the WL 6' 11 1/3'' distance between gunports 7' 4 5/8' Okay, let´s see how these dimensions are defined on the plan: First, the perpendiculars on the outboard profile (green lines) .As the name implies, these are either perpendicular to the keel or the load waterline (WL, red line). On british plans, they´re always perpendicular to the keel. On most french ones, also perpendicular to the keel. Swedish and danish, it depends on the timeframe, but most probably perpendicular to the WL. But they´re always parallels to the station lines (the thin red lines with numbers and/or letters). There were several ways to define the position of the perpendiculars, here it´s the intersection of the rabbet line (bright blue, shows where the inner edge of the planking is attached to the keel, stem and stern post) and the WL. I added the purple lines to show where the perps would have been on a british plan (at the stem and stern post, that´s the 'length of the gundeck'), these would give a length of 168' 7 1/3''. Next stop, the breadth. Here we have the breadth moulded, that means the breadth inside of planking, as opposed to breadth extreme, i.e. outside of planking. Here´s the body plan: It shows the station lines (the thin red lines on the outboard profile, remember? ^^) and the breadth moulded is the distance between the two yellow lines along the red WL. The station lines aren´t necessarily in the same positions as the actual frames, but they nethertheless define the shape of the hull. What they don´t show, however, is what the hull looks like with planking. This a very important thing to know if you want to make a 3D ship model and sadly a beginner´s mistake that happens quite often. If you don´t have a cross section that shows the thickness of the planking, you can measure the distance of the rabbet line (bright blue) to the keel, these are the two short orange lines, roughly 4''. This gives you the thickness of the planking from the keel up to the wales. The wales are just 3 or 4 rows of thicker planks which run along the whole length of the ship; as a rule of thump, they have 1,33 times the thickness of the planking of the underwater hull. The outboard profile shows the upper and lower edge of the wales (white line, 1. and 2.), the body plan only the upper edge (1.). Depth in hold. The danes used the french method of measuring the depth in hold, so this is the distance (dark blue line) from the upper edge of the keel to the lower surface of the upper gun deck beams at the midship bent (where the breadth moulded is taken). The british would measure the distance from upper edge of the keel to the lower surface of the gun deck. Draught fore and aft Easy. This is the distance from the WL to the keel along the perpendiculars fore and aft. Now let´s let get to the interesting bits: Here you can see which lines correspond with each other on the profile, half-breadth and body plan. Gefion´s tumblehome is pretty modest (2' 6''), especially compared to earlier ships like La Belle Poule and La Renommée. A large tumblehome can have positive effect on stabilty, but it also reduced the space available to operate the guns and may have made the ship a jerky roller. X, X1 and X2, called buttock lines on modern plans, are lines to check the plan (and a 3D model) for errors. Here´s what these lines look like in 3D: And in combination with the (unfinished) basic hull model: The station lines and the buttock lines (red) should describe the same exact surface. The clipping effect is pretty nocticeable as both are low-res, but it´s a nice start. The line called L'Estain (I only know the french term and you will find it only on french and danish plans) is especially interesting as it´s a simple diagonal on the half-breadth, but quite a complex curve on the outboard profile. It more or less defines the shape of the forward fashion piece, which can be seen here: The line called 1 B on the original plan is the part of the wing transom where the planking ends. So, now that we know what line means what, it´s time to check the plan for inaccuracies and distortions. The first step is to measure the scale given on the top of the draught. There are four equal parts à 10 fod with 384 pixels per part. The largest horizontal dimension given is that of the length p/p, so we measure the distance between the perpendiculars along the WL. That´s 6152 pixels, multiplied with the result of 10 fod/384 pixels gives us 160' 2''. Two inches off the mark, but very good for a plan that has been drawn 168 years ago. The largest vertical dimension is the depth in hold. That´s 810 pixels, multiplied with the result of 10 fod/384 pixels gives us 21' 1 1/8'' instead of 21' 1''. 1/8 of an inch. Not bad, not bad Another good check for distortions is to compare the distance between the yellow line and the middle of the body plan and the yellow line and the middle of the half breadth at the midship bend. In this case, it´s 791 vs. 790 pixels, so pretty much perfect. Pro tip: if you want to model a ship from the Architectura Navalis and use a plan from Chapman.net, this last check is absolutely necessary as those plans are heavily distorted along the x-axis. Different types of measurements Let´s have closer look at how perpendiculars can be defined (which in turn define the length of a ship). Here´s the draught of a danish ship, dated 1807. Perpendiculars Danish shipwrights at the time dropped the perpendiculars (green lines) at the intersection of the LWL (load waterline, blue) and the rabbet line at the stem and stern post (without planking thickness). This gives a length of 138' 6''. This method was also used by some shipwrights in France, by the way. British shipwrights dropped the perpendiculars at the intersection of the lower surface of the gun deck and rabbet line at the stem and stern post (without planking thickness). Unfortunately, the gun deck isn´t shown on the plan, so I used the upper deck for the perpendiculars (yellow line). This gives a length of the upper deck of 143'. French shipwrights......well, they used a lot of different methods to define the perpendiculars One of the most common was the intersection of the outside of the stern post with the projection of the upper face of the wing transom aft and the outside of the stem fore (brown line). Another method was using the intersection of the LWL and the outside of stem and stern post (purple line). This gives a length of 144' 3'' for the former and 141' 3'' for the latter. Breadth Danish and french shipwrights used outside of frame to outside of frame at the midship bent (red line), which is the same as the british breadth moulded, 36' 8'' in this case. The british breadth extreme adds the thickness of the second strake above or below the wales to the breadth moulded. The thickness of this strake isn´t given on the plan, but in an additional document (5,5 ''). So breadth extreme would be 36' 8'' + 2* 5,5'' = 37' 7''. Depth in hold Danish and french shipwrights defined the depth in hold as the distance (black line) between the upper surface of the keel - including rabbet line - and the lower surface of the deck beams of the closest armed deck (the upper deck, in this case). This ship has a depth in hold of 18' 2''. British depth in hold was distance (green line) between the upper surface of the keel - including rabbet line - and the lower surface of the deck beams of the closest continuous deck (the gun or lower deck in this case). Depth in hold measured this way is 12' 3''. Easy, isn´t it? To complicate things a bit, let´s convert the danish fod used so far into french pied de roi and british feet and apply the corresponding measurement methods. Danish Length 138' 6'' Breadth 36' 8'' Depth in Hold 18' 2'' French Length 139' 6'' Breadth 35' 4'' Depth in Hold 17' 7'' British Length 147' 5'' Breadth extreme 38' 9'' Depth in Hold 12' 7,5'' Links: http://www.marinewiki.org/index.php?title=Lines_plan http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/plans_and_research/InterpretingLineDrawings.pdf
  8. AlteSocken

    Tutorial - how it could look like

    So many people pointed out that a tutorial is missing, but I did not read any suggestion so far about how this could be achieved. So here is mine (maybe it's helpful): Tutorial is reachable from the missions tab for the first rank only. Starting the tutorial spawns the player into an instance without any opponent (so far). The players ship lies on beam reach, just like in the normal missions. A message-box appears telling the player to go on battle sails while at the same time highlighting the corresponding control. If the player did as he was told, the procedure repeats, telling him to go on full sails. Next the player is told to get close-hauled. The messagebox telling him to do so contains a picture showing the points-of-sail. Once the player is close-hauled some kind of buoy appears in the direction where the wind comes from. A message-box appears, explaining how to reach a target by tacking. player is told to reach the buoy by tacking. Once the player has crossed the buoy, he is told how to make a jibe manouver and to round the buoy. After that, the buoy disappears and a Lynx appears on the scene. The player is explained how to load cannons with different shots and tasked with loading chain-shot and to engage the Lynx. Once he in canons-reach, the aiming will be explained and the player will be tasked with damaging the Lynx's sail down to 80%. After achieving the last goal, the player will be tasked with loading grape-shot and bringing down the crew to a certain amount. Player is told how to depower sails for proper aiming. When achieved, the player is told to load ball-shot and to sink the Lynx. Since boarding is about beeing reworked after release it deserves a separate tutorial. The basic-cutter the player has could be equipped with 6pdrs to ease up achivements. A small reward could be handed out after successfuly completing the tutorial.
  9. Coraline Vodka

    Kickstarter for a tutorial

    Let me start by saying I have helped countless players try and learn the game with most not lasting a week. Any new player I meet they get showered with ships and gold trying to help them up. Invite them to teamspeak and hand hold but one fishing hook can only catch one fish at a time. A big net of a tutorial will catch many more fish (players we need to test the game) It seems a tutorial is low on the list of priorities as is the constitution revamp so why not try and solve two birds with one kickstarter? Lets raise some money to have a solid tutorial that will benefit new players and veterans who wont have to hand hold new players as much.
  10. Col_Kelly

    Union campaign (Hard)

    As I haven't seen a lot of youtube campaigns played on hard recently I decided to make a small tutorial playing as Union. It is but a tiny contribution but I hope it might help some players at least in their early campaign. Not used to recording myself and my spoken english is far from perfect so I hope you can all cope with it :). Feel free to ask any question if something is unclear in the vids. Here is part 1 ... and part 2. Bull Run will come up soon.
  11. A tutorial on how to sail with manual sails in Naval Action game with a twist. I am showing this on an actual learning tool that the sailors of that period were using to learn the art of manual sails. The Mariner's Compass was graciously borrowed to me by a friend Zeljko Skomersic who has an impressive naval collection of model ships that you can view in the following video:
  12. Open World UI Battle UI Boarding
  13. Hi, I've been thinking a lot recently about ranks and all that tedium which revolves around it like endless grinds and so on. In other MMOs you usually encounter 90% PVE and 10% PvP (if at all) and there player levels make sense but in Naval Action, however, where 99% is either PvP or preparation for PvP I wonder why it is sooo necessary to grind without any story or an end-game like raids etc.. Aren't there already enough 'natural' barriers which hinder a new player from sailing a victory 10 mins after buying the game? Can't we instead of grinding to learn the game have a proper tutorial in form of a couple of missions for new players? The first missions could be something very simple like sail from A to B. The second could be tag and sink that npc. The thrid could be buy 10 hemp and sell it.. the 4th craft your own basic cutter et cetera. The final missions could be a port battle with bots. Maybe write a small little story around it and add tutorial pop ups to every mission. Also remind the player of the help tab in chat and that they could ask questions there regarding the tutorial and its missions. The current ranks could be some sort of prestige for successful PvPers. The more battles you fight the farther you increase in rank. Maybe add also special ranks for crafters and traders. A player can select the rank he wishes to show other players so that they can see how good he is in his preferred field. Basically, joining a clan would immediately throw a new player into PvP or the game instead of having to tediously grind day in, day out. Players will need money from NPC missions anyway but making it possible to theoretically do everything right from the start doesn't hurt anybody and only makes the game more enjoyable for everybody.. So why do we have ranks? I wonder why it is beneficial? I argue that the game would be more popular on steam without the grind..
  14. This beginners starting guide explains the basics of PvP combat battles. I simplify it as much as possible, and tell you what you need to know without dragging it on in a 30+ minute video. I know how frustrated I was trying to learn it all by myself, hopefully this tutorial helps you out so you can have some fun in the game!
  15. A quick video covering the basics to boarding and capturing ships. Enjoy
  16. Pues aquí el segundo vídeo de los que prometí y el que más me han solicitado sobre como usar las velas manualmente. Espero que os guste y sobre todo, que os sea de utilidad. Si es así, dejad un comentario o al menos un like que estos tutoriales llevan un ojó de horas de edición y de cuelgues del Sony Vegas (voy a envejecer antes de tiempo por culpa de ese puto programa) Salu2! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08uWbNxzrjo
  17. BuzzMoo

    Quick start video for new players

    Hi all, I've put together a brief video based off the things I've learned over the past week or so! It's a QuickStart guide for those who have just grabbed the game. Hopefully it covers a bunch of the frequently asked questions in the help channel. I have to upload it in parts because my internet is terrible. I've probably missed things and I'm fairly new myself but...it is what it is.
  18. There is a substantial amount of information provided by the Battle UI, here is a quick comprehensive guide to it all.
  19. R.E.B.Blunt

    Blunt's Tutorial

    The key to being a decent multi-player general is knowing about your enemy and the tactics you use to face them down. Each brigade is different than the other. Some brigades have larger numbers this comes in handy when you fire your volleys against weaker Brigades sending shock into their lines, Some have stronger morale this means they will stand under fire longer and fight better in hand to hand combat, still others can load and reload faster the benefits of that is obvious. Knowing which units do what is key to the tactics you use to fight against and utilize when facing other units. Units like the Iron Brigade have both Strong morale and can load and reload faster than normal units. You never want to throw away the lives of the Iron Brigade needlessly. If one of your crack units begin to suffer large losses pull them back reorder your battle lines and bring them up in a spot they wont lose so many men. Cutler Brigade has medium morale but can load and reload faster than normal brigades. On the confederate side Avery and Louisiana Tigers are very strong with above average load and reload times. These are just a few and knowing which units do what is key to victory. So here is a list of tried and tested strategy and tactics for single player and multiplayer. Leap Frog This is a tactic I discovered early on it is very simple and very effective. In this tactic you will set your brigades up in two or three rows. With gaps between your brigades so they DO NOT TOUCH. Place the next row behind your front line but place them in the gap. Then for the third row you place those brigades behind the second row and in the gap. Keeping gaps in your line is key to avoiding friendly fire. When you advance your battle line keep your front line in contact with the enemy hold them in place. Then bring up the Rear line and place them in the front. Leap frog your brigades over the two rows in front form a new front line then bring up the next row that was in the rear. In this way you will maintain your morale at its strongest level when advancing and you will be able to keep up maximum fire on the enemy. The draw backs of this is you cannot have a very long battle line. This leaves you open to being flanked but is a very good tactic when you know the enemy must defend and you must attack. This tactic also works wonders when you need to orderly fall back. Fallback behind one row, then the next, then the next, this way you keep up the fire on the enemy and as you fall back you will gain morale. Fall back to Counter This tactic works wonders when you are out numbered and/or need to preserve your strength and morale. When the enemy attacks you and you cannot hold against them the only logical way to preserve your army is a tactical withdraw from the fighting. By doing this you will allow your units to fight later on. You should never let your brigades morale get lower then 15. Any lower is very dangerous. At 20 morale your brigades will no longer waiver. As you fall back the enemy will pursue you, your morale will begin to rise and the enemy will begin to lose morale. This can be used as a ploy to sucker the enemy into a false sense of satisfaction in which he thinks he is winning the battle and you are on the ropes. As you fall back he will chase after, You then can form up a new line. When you halt your line. Click each brigade and focus your entire battle line on one or two enemy brigades. As the enemy advances they will meet volley fire from three or more brigades and will not realize it till it is too late. If they get close to your line fall back again. As you fire they will rout VERY quickly and you must be ready. As the enemy begins to rout you need to advance. Then focus your fire onto any remaining brigades that have not routed. This is the counter attack and it must be decisive for it to work. Do not advance to far to fast or you will begin to lose morale very fast. Advance slowly but steadily. Flank to Enfilade Fire Flank to Enfilade fire is and extremely important tactic you will need to practice before you can master it. It consists of extending your battle line to the edge of the enemy battle line. When you have reached the edge of their line you will need to extend your line and wrap your brigades around the edge before they can counter. This is a extremely devastating tactic and can rout an entire army if done properly. To do this you need to mass your troops before giving away your plans. What you should do is mass two or three brigades on your flank preferably behind a hill or wooded area that the enemy cannot see you. Then when you make contact you need to run those three brigades and string them out one by one by one and form up a battle line as fast as humanly possible on the enemy flank before he can counter. By taking those brigades from the center of your line your main line will be weaker and you need to be aware of how many enemy brigades are attacking your center while you are trying to flank. Fall back your center if you have too. Make him think that is the main point of battle but in fact your main attack will be on his flank where he is weakest. To counter a enemy flank you need to fall back and press the attack where he is weaker. let him exhaust his men by running around your flank. Simply fall back and re-order your brigades to attack his weaker area's. Proper Cannon Placement Placing your cannons is key to keeping the strain of the fight off of your brigades. To first find the select areas to place your cannons press the "M" key this will give you a map topography view from which you can see peaks of mountains. Placing units on top of mountains is not the only thing you must do. You need to be aware of obstacles, Houses and Trees will impede the view of your cannons. So make sure your line of sight from your cannon to your target is not impeded. Next do not bunch your Cannons on top of one another. Cannons spread out and hitting the same target from many directions will devastate the enemy morale. Bring up one or two of your cannons to use as Canister shot. This is devastating for up close and even more if you can rake the enemy brigade down the side and enfilade fire down their lines. High Ground and Trees Using terrain is very important when it comes to keeping your armies morale and strength intact. Position your brigades on a hill. Use the "M" key to discover the ridge of the hills. Place your Brigades on the edge of the ridge. Enemy Brigades that assault up the hill will face very high odds. The only downside with standing on the top of hills is that your guns will overshoot the enemy and will not be as effective. Units firing up the hill usually have an advantage more rounds will find the target but they lose morale faster when walking up the hill. Keeping your Brigades in wooded areas will also give your men a great boost in not taking so many casualties when being fired upon. Charge The charge in Ultimate General Gettysburg plays a major role. Knowing when and how to use charge is key to not watching your charge turn into an utter rout. pressing the charge should only be used when the gap between armies is not very long. Pressing charge wears your armies out just as much as it wears the enemy. Only charge when the enemy is flashing white that means they are waivering. When this happens press "charge" close the gaps as fast as possible hit the enemy fast. When the solid white color appears above the enemy this means they are routing. Press HALT. You do not want to tire your army out. If your brigades are less than 15 morale press fall back. Preserve your strength. Also dragging your Brigade to march into or past the enemy brigade line is very effective. Pressing charge your men will go into melee combat. But if you click and drag your unit they will melee into the enemy but will walk through and come out behind. If you have stronger morale than the enemy you will rout the enemy. But be very careful if you do not you can end up sustaining huge losses and could potentially lose your entire army. Anchor Brigades Anchor Brigades are the three star Brigades that if you are lucky will accompany your armies. These are your crack fighting units. You should not waste their lives needlessly. You should support them at all costs. Never leave them alone. If these brigades rout your army will follow. Never allow them to rout.
  20. ataboo


    Started an unofficial wiki at: http://naval-action-unofficial.wikia.com/ There's a lot more to cover so anyone should feel free to add to it.