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The Soldier

Civil War Tester
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About The Soldier

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  1. The extra 400 range on the Whitworths doesn't quite make up for the drop in damage. A few niche situations, like at Malvern Hill for example, a battery or two of Whitworths to attack the Confederate guns might not be bad, but 20pdr Parrotts outclass it in almost every other circumstance. Also, do remember the 14pdr James is just as effective, if not more so, than the 20pdr Parrott against targets in it's reduced range. Always good to have a few of those around.
  2. Alright, I put in some considerable updates to the 12pdr Whitworth and the 10pdr Parrott Rifle sections and a minor update to the 12pdr Howitzer sections (the last two not buffed this patch, but based on some experiences I had testing the Whitworth alongside other guns). In short - 12pdr Whitworth can shoot stuff rather well across the map. 10pdr Parrott Rifle is very, very good at long range fire (think of it as a mini 14pdr James Rifle).
  3. New stuff

    A lot of custom battles have been added in, basically taking bits of the campaign and allowing you to play them as a custom battle. Rather nice. Also lots of balance regarding cannons. Oblique control also, depending on how long you've been out (hands-down best thing added ever). Oh, and Grant has a new portrait. Hurrah!
  4. 3-Inch Ordnance Rifles are a fine choice for equipping your artillery with. Just remember that they're most effective at medium range, 40+ kills per volley.
  5. Corps Commander unit deleted in battle: What Happens?

    No effect whatsoever. Same goes for your Corps generals - they can get shot, but they won't die. Simply taken off the field.
  6. As far as I'm aware, impact fuzes during the Civil War were in their infantry. They required hitting a hard surface to detonate, and even then were unreliable, let alone hitting dirt or wet ground. This relegated them to an anti-fortification role, and made them rare on the open battlefield. This made time fuzes to be the most common fuze for case and shell, whether it be a conical piece of wood with whiskey-soaked and dried gunpowder inside that you cut to a marked out length for time or the more advanced Bormann time fuze where you just punched a hole in a dial to the desired time. I'm actually being more pedantic than you about the 14-Pounder James Rifle. The inventor, Charles T. James originally designed and preferred a 14-pounder projectile developed to fit into the bore of a rifled 6-pounder field gun. The in-game HUD icon uses an M1829 32-Pounder Siege as the base model, as proven by the history image (taking into consideration the ringknob, small rounded muzzle swell, decorative rings, perceived size based on other cannon, and others). The size and weight of that cannon's unrifled projectiles is already more than double that of the 14-pounder James, which is then even heavier than the original 6-pounder shell. A 32-pounder Siege Gun would be using a 64-pound James projectile, which would make it a 64-Pounder James Rifle, hardly the 14-Pounder James Rifle as stated in the game (whose stats and intent definitely make it the 14pdr James rifle, based on the same damage and short range that it and the 6-pounder field gun share). Ah, I would kill to have even a 4.5-Inch Siege Rifle, let alone a 64-Pounder James Rifle. Ah but alas, the HUD image lies.
  7. Corrected the bit about case shot and shell shot. The James Rifle's icon is definitely not a 6pdr Field Gun. The ringknob gives it away - 6pdr Field guns were never issued with a naval-type knob. The profile also matches most M1829 32pdr Siege Guns better than any 6pdr Field gun out there. I generally tried to find contemporary photos of these cannons with soldiers posing in them. The only one I really couldn't find was the 24pdr Howitzer (and the 10pdr Tredegar Rifle, for the reason that it never existed, though I think I can get a pass on that one). I was aware that the carriage in the photo was rather small, but I couldn't find another contemporary photo with soldiers in it.
  8. Minor bugs

    The starting troops change their name with the commander, just played a Union campaign and they were fine with commanders changing. There are two kinds of cavalry depending on their weapons - Shock Cavalry armed with pistols and sabers, and Carbine Cavalry armed with carbines like the M1855 Sharps. Shock Cavalry only fire their weapons in close range (no need for a range marker) but cannot dismount. Carbine cavalry can dismount and effectively turn into skirmishers, and remount again, which also answers your next question. Battle difficulty will depend on how well you did in previous battles - kill more of the enemy in one Grand Battle and you'll have it easier in the next. The brightness seems fine, haven't had any difficulty seeing units. Seeing the firing arc lines, however, is another beast alltogether that needs improving. Battles end either at the end of a phase timer or the Securing of an objective. If you don't know your Civil War history, then it's always best to try to take the objectives required for Victory (listed in the objectives screen) as soon as possible. A lot of the confederates ones, yeah. MJ&G Type II is a good one but you don't get too many. The Tyler Texas is just a turd, don't bother. Those are the only two rifles I can think of that are exceedingly rare. You can move around and swap out troops in the boxes at the start of battles. Left click and drag to move them, and right click to send them back into the Army HUD. Can't disband corps and divisions because you could farm colonels and brigadier generals (very valuable officers, especially early on).
  9. Brock Road Union

    I pretty much did a double envelopment of the entire position. One blue line stretching from one Rebel flank to the other. The Rebels' right flank in particular is easy to break through, and you need to hold it later as a capture point anyhow. Charge down the rebels across the road when you make it there and it should crumble with some prodding.
  10. Can't Play Gaines Mill round, am I stuck?

    All you have to do is make another Corps and move one brigade into it. That'll cover the two corps requirement - nothing ever said it had to be a fully kitted out corps. And make sure you put the corps into the right slots, the lit-up ones, otherwise it won't register it.
  11. Fredericksburg as Union

    Option B is my usual route, down to the Carbine Cavalry as well.
  12. Lags on some maps and possible reason

    Hardin's Pike didn't and Hall's Ferry Road didn't lag much for me. Neither did Cold Harbor or Harrison's Creek - all of which make heavy use of breastworks fortifications. Chancellorsville and Chickamauga, however, always drop down to 15 FPS or worse for me, both of which have insane numbers of trees.
  13. Lags on some maps and possible reason

    If you want a laggy map, you go to Chickamauga. When that map opens up, it's probably the slowest battle in existence. So yeah, it's definitely trees. But they already optimized trees a couple patches ago, but it didn't do much for the really tree-heavy and large maps.
  14. Bayou Forche

    I generally move my entire starting force through the west forest (hugging the map edge so the enemy doesn't spot our movements), cannons included. I recommend 20pdr Parrotts for this job, by the way. Array your men and guns across the north crossing, blow the defenders out, rinse and repeat for when you cross the river and face the main defenses. Any other forces that come up from the south as reinforcements on the other island are pointless, crossing the river there is suicide. Just leave them right there to make the enemy think about some things.
  15. Thanks! Uh, that isn't me. Might be @Col_Kelly or @PegLegFatty.
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